The last time I ate at Williams Barbecue was the day before COVID officially started shutting everything down. We shot a commercial early that morning in north Alabama and were making our way back when lunchtime hit right around Cullman. I was starving and Williams had my favorite entrée combination, pulled pork and fried catfish. We listened to the news the entire drive, not knowing what a pandemic would mean but hoping we would get one last meal.

What turned out to be our last meal in a restaurant for some months evolved into a five-year hiatus. Work stopped taking me to Cullman and I focused on visiting more famous barbecue joints. I almost forgot about Williams, until I was headed to a church camp during the summer. Williams was the only place on my route that was open on Mondays. I would be united with my long-lost friend.

In full transparency, parts of my visit were uncomfortable and not what I expected. I left an online review noting some of the awkward details, to which Williams swiftly responded, offering an apology, an explanation, and an invitation to come back. I appreciate their vulnerability and reaching out with courtesy. I’m happy to return as the issues were understandable and fixable.

When I arrived at 11:30, there was no one else in the dining room. The TV was off, there was no music, and the only sound was the staff chattering. Considering Williams is in a more industrial part of town, I was surprised to find myself all alone. With no distractions, I noticed the plain nature of the décor. There was no local flair, nothing tying it to the community. Local joints usually provide a good sense of what the community is like. Still, everything was clean and orderly, with wooden booths and four tops providing a spacious and adaptable dining room.

My server was new but polite and conversational. While still green, she worked diligently so I would have a good experience. Her efforts delivered a beautiful plate of food that looked the part of a serious southern restaurant. It was stylish, colorful, and well-composed. The disappointing part of the meal was the pulled pork, which was dry and bland. It benefited from the white sauce, which I really loved.  Perhaps it was made with spicy brown mustard, but it still had sharpness from the vinegar. The baked beans were in a thick tomato sauce, peppery and sweet with a bit of heat on the end. I felt they were a bit tinny but delivered on the expectation.

The real star of the show was the fried catfish. A big filet came out golden brown, lightly battered and hot from the fryer. The outside was crispy and the inside tender, flaky, and moist. The catfish flavor really shined as it wasn’t over-seasoned or greasy, just a beautiful piece of fish fried to perfection. The fries were equally well done. Crispy, salty, and seasoned with a blend that might have had a hint of cinnamon. I’m not positive but whatever it was, each bite was delicious.

The real genius move on the plate was the pickled red onions, jalapenos, and pickles. All that acid provided relief from all the fattiness and provided a freshness that brightened everything. So many smart decisions that I’m curious to explore more of Williams’ menu.