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The Crow's Nest
Stop for
Bar-b-que
Ahead
Andalusia
THE DOWN LOW
Props to my cousin, Tim Blackwell, for turning me on to The Crow’s Nest. Tim acquired the family homestead in Brantley where Mom’s side is from. Whenever we’d visit he’d lay out a huge spread of multiple meats, vegetables, and desserts. He wasn’t used to cooking for large groups because he’d always make a ton of food and send us back with a couple meals of leftovers. But our last visit saw him take a different approach. He drove to Andalusia and brought back the goods from The Crow’s Nest.
To me, Andalusia is the most graceful city name in all of Alabama. It has a certain alliteration that’s charming and floats images of old country mansions with front porch swings and blue ceilings. Most rural communities were poor in possessions, but rich in the substance that makes folks self-reliant and selfless.
The Crow’s Nest had its own charm, rustic with tributes to southern know-how and wisdom. Snake skins and deer heads hung in homage to resourcefulness and little signs of witty sayings sat scattered around the dining room, including one that says, “Jesus Loves You…(and I’m really trying.)”
Jesus definitely loves us and praise God for that. While His judgments are always just, I hope Chase’s reviews are at least fair, because The Crow’s Nest is a great Alabama barbecue joint! If you don’t have a reason to go to Andalusia, now you do. The detour we made was inconsequential when compared with what we reaped.
There were three occupied tables when I arrived and everyone knew each other. They made small talk about each other’s families and left hoping to see each other again soon. Another customer was welcomed with, “You want the usual?” I’ve witnessed it before and participated in identical conversations, which brings out a hominess that’s absent among strangers.
The pulled pork was tender and smoky with an inherent sweetness. It’s served chopped making for tidy dining whether eating from a tabletop or off your lap in the car. It was delicious without any sauce although the house sauce is worthy of the main course. It’s thick and sweet, mildly spiced and dark in color. Whether you use it or not, you won’t be disappointed.
The real showstopper is the sweet potato fries. Amazing! They’re crisp outside, especially at the corners, and soft inside. They’re creamy and sugary, the best qualities of a good sweet potato. They have such a natural flavor that you could identify them with your eyes closed. These babies are going on Chase’s list of things You Gotta Try.
The baked beans held their own on my little plate of magic. They were hearty, full of meat in a dark, rich, peppery sauce that was well balanced. They could be a meal all on their own as they seem to cover all the food groups, at least in theory. Collectively, this is one of my best barbecue meals in a long time. There were no weak links but I wish I’d also ordered a side of onion rings. I saw an order hit the window and they were massive! Thick cut and hand battered before frying to a perfect golden color. They looked light, crisp, salty, and greasy as heck. They were calling my name. Next time The Crow’s Nest…next time.
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