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Roadside 'Que

Stop for

Bar-b-que

Ahead

Fort Payne

THE DOWN LOW

Smoked brisket is a big deal in some parts of the country, most notably in Texas. In the South, it historically hasn’t been a thing.  But as barbecue’s popularity has grown, brisket has found its way onto a lot of menus. The rub is that just because you can smoke a pork shoulder, doesn’t mean you can handle a brisket with the same deft touch. I’ve had lots of good brisket in Alabama, but nothing that made sense of all the fuss. That changed with one stop.


Roadside ‘Que caught my attention because of their philosophy. All of their meat is purchased from local farms with natural, sustainable practices. Starting with a higher quality meat results in a healthier, more flavorful barbecue. Combine that with an unusual menu of sides and this becomes a truly unique dining experience. I know of no other joint that serves Warm German Potato Salad, Brussel Sprout Hash, or Pork Green Chili as accompaniments. While all resemble traditional Southern barbecue dishes, the obvious departure is gutsy with a fresh and healthy spin . Locally brewed beers and wines are also prominent, creating a watering hole for those that love to “support local”.


Visiting Roadside ‘Que forced me to break one of my personal rules, “Don’t eat barbecue out of a strip mall.” If you’ve shared this unwritten rule, don’t let it stop you. The storefront is right on the main drag but the sign can be hard to see. Google will get you there so take it slow and keep your eyes peeled. Once served, everything comes into focus. The pork comes out pulled but also in bite size chunks. It creates a hearty chew and with an obvious smoke ring, there’s no surprise that each bite is tender and smoky.


If you’ve never had warm German potato salad, clear your mind before ordering. It’s nothing like the mayo-based variety famous at church picnics. Likewise, the baked beans are their own thing. Don’t go expecting something like a stew because these are not that. The mac n cheese was the most familiar side we tried, cooked with a firm noodle and homemade sauce that shunned processed cheese. It was robust and hearty and I loved it!


Near the end of our meal, the owner, Justin, dropped the flavor bomb on us. My aforementioned prejudices prevented me from ordering brisket, but he insisted it was the best thing on the menu and treated us to a sample. WOW!!! If this is the way they’re smoking brisket in Texas, I now get it. This was the most flavorful, juicy, tender beef I’ve ever had at any barbecue joint. It was so good we got an order to go and it was just as delicious when I warmed it for lunch two days later. Fort Payne understands as Roadside sells more brisket than any other meat, a rarity in the South. Get this place on your radar!


Roadside ‘Que is a destination! It’s worth the trip from wherever you live. No need to wait until you’re in the Fort Payne/Rainsville/Mentone area because the drive will pay itself off. This town that’s famous for producing Alabama, the greatest country band of all time, Little River Canyon, and being Sock Capitol of the World, just pinned another feather in its cap.

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