While taking pictures outside of Hickory Chip, I met the owner, Craig Smith. He was curious about my actions and we struck up a conversation. It was brief but contained a broad overview of the restaurant’s history.  We also talked about the Elmore’s, the family that started the business as a roadside barbecue stand in the early ‘80s. I’m good friends with Jody and Robby Elmore, brothers that grew up working alongside their parents in the family business. Craig spoke of them graciously as he’s expanded the building’s footprint several times over his 20 plus years of ownership. Hickory Chip is a busy joint that’s evolved into more than just a highway barbecue stop.

The best way to describe the Hickory Chip’s style is a handyman’s delight. Every addition was merely closing in square footage and providing simple access to that new space. There was no remodeling or renovating the old space to create a more efficient flow or uniform feel. The goal was simply to seat and serve more patrons. Every turn happens with a sense of anticipation as you’re not sure what’s around the corner. For instance, the front dining room used to be the patio and still features the exterior windows that once overlooked the parking lot. Now, if you peek through them, you’ll see your neighbor dining from the greatly expanded menu. Burgers, steaks, fried catfish, salads, and daily specials are all on tap, but I’m here for the pork barbecue that started it all.

All of my previous visits to Hickory Chip have been for either a burger or fried catfish. It’s tough for me to pass up a nicely fried catfish filet and this place does it right. Still, I was there in an official capacity, representing The Alabama Barbecue Chase and smoked pork was on my mind. Theirs comes served in a nice sized chop and a generous portion. I wasn’t hit with any distinct smell or taste profile. Pork is the dominant flavor, which sounds ridiculous to a novice, but barbecue takes on the flavor of the wood it’s smoked over or the seasoning with which it’s rubbed. I covered mine in their deep red barbecue sauce. This is my favorite style of sweet sauce and I know a few other joints with similar recipes. The sauce is thick with a slight bite, good spice, and little to no heat.  These types are usually sweetened with molasses and/or brown sugar which creates the dark color. Hickory Chip’s also had something that created a little funk on the back end. I love the fact they leave a bottle on the table so you can dispense at your pleasure.

I broke from my traditional sides because I’m also a sucker for lima beans. Theirs were tender, cooked with ham and onions. They’re only lightly seasoned so you can add salt and pepper to taste. I also tasted something acidic that introduced itself on the finish. I paired it with potato salad, which used russets and a mayo & mustard dressing. It was used sparingly creating a relatively dry texture with a strong hit of dill from the relish. The finishing touch was a perfectly golden-fried piece of Texas toast.

Running a restaurant isn’t easy, much less one that does many things. Hickory Chip is southern favorites done simply and well. From a simple roadside pick-up to a multiroom sit-down, the evolution continues and now generations have shared their comforting food. What a journey!