If you grew up in Alabama as a child, you know Kathryn Tucker Windham.  She wrote a book titled “13 Alabama Ghosts and Jeffrey”, along with numerous other books of ghost stories. These were the hot thing in elementary school and checking one out from the library meant you were immediately the center of attention. She was a magnificent storyteller and was the epitome of southern grace and charm.

I met Mrs. Windham as a young professional. I had just begun my videographer career and was working on the Max Shores documentary, “The Ghosts of Selma”. Mrs. Wyndham welcomed us to her home for an interview, ghost stories, and a look into Southern superstitions.  She also introduced us to her favorite restaurant, Hancock’s Barbecue. Still believing that barbecue was a competition, I approached the experience with a closed mind. While I indulged in our personal time, I wish I had done the same with the food. Returning to Hancock’s some 25 years later, I realized Mrs. Windham not only knew her ghosts, but she also knew her barbecue.

Hancock’s is a medium sized joint on the west side of Selma, a location that validates its rustic charm. The walls are knotty pine paneling and covered with plenty of hunting trophies, including deer, fish, turkeys, ducks, fox, snakes, and a very old woodpecker. With a well adorned fireplace and tile floor, it feels like a sportsman’s paradise. The atmosphere is genuine and comfortable, as evidenced by the diversity in the packed dining room. Hunters, young families, country folk, and visitors from multiple ethnicities all gathered comfortably together with genuine, proven comfort food.

The menu offers plenty of choices, but if barbecue and catfish are served on the same plate, that’s all I need to know. I’m a sucker for that pairing and chose sides of baked beans and fried pickles. I saw onion rings on another table and was tempted by their golden battered gleam but remained true to baked beans being a staple of my measuring stick.

The fried catfish fillets were meaty with a firm breading. They had a strong catfish flavor so if you’re on the fence about catfish, these are not for you. Depending on how they’re raised the flavor can be more mild or intense. This one was the latter and preferred with the tarter sauce, which was thick and creamy with a touch of citrus and a horseradish bite.

The pulled pork was served hot, tender and juicy. It comes chopped so there’s a variety of color and texture from the bark to the smoke ring. It had a gentle, smoky flavor and was perfectly delicious naked, (the pork, that is). Being chopped this way made it easy to eat, especially if you want to mix it with sauce and pile a bite on a fried piece of buttery Texas toast.

Hancock’s sauce is closer to a North Carolina sauce than a traditional Alabama red. It’s on the thinner side, dark in color and lightly spiced. Overall, it’s a mild sauce but with a kick of acid at the end. It’s a perfect pairing with the meat, enhancing the flavor rather than covering it up.

For sides, the baked beans were soft, sweet and peppery. It’s a simple recipe that’s executed really well and appeals to a wide variety of tastes. The biggest surprise was the fried pickles. I was expecting fried chips, which is the most common preparation. Hancock’s looked like fries, long, thin and fried golden brown. Crispy, crunchy, salty and sour, they ate best with ranch and contrasted perfectly with the sweet beans. The kitchen doesn’t skimp on portion sizes, so come hungry or plan on leftovers.

Selma is an interesting town. I can’t think of another place that’s so attractive and yet equally repulsive. The pretty parts of town fill me with wonder, but much of the city is depressed and dilapidated. Fortunately, there is a movement to revive Selma and return its status as Queen City of the Black Belt! It deserves that. No other city exceeds Selma’s significance to Alabama’s history or offers more attractions that are otherwise seen only in your imagination. For me, Hancock’s Barbecue is part of Selma’s story.