It’s been a long time since I’ve had sliced barbecue. In fact, there’s only one other time it’s even been offered. At Dick Russell’s, that’s the only way it comes. After eating pulled pork at more than 70 restaurants, this twist caught me by surprise and I began wondering about the oddity of it.

Dick Russell’s Famous Bar-B-Q is a member of the inaugural class of the Alabama Barbecue Hall of Fame.  Operating since 1954, the façade and décor reflect their history and expectations of a comfortable and faithful clientele. I imagine many of the old-timers in the dining hall first came with their parents or even grandparents. Nostalgia is a mighty influencer and you sense that this place is powered by it.

You know you’re in Mobile from the huge oak that shades most of the parking. A bright sign in traditional colors marks the building entrance and the smell of wood smoke is your first greeter as you cross the threshold. The inside is comprised of earthy colors and textures, dominated by a wooden trestle over the center row of booths. It’s part of the architecture that allows the inside to feel open while giving each table its privacy.

At Dick Russell’s, biscuits are standard fare, brought to the table like any traditional starter. The giants are soft except for the crispy bottom, which I usually achieve by using a cast iron skillet. I don’t know how they pull it off, but the competing textures is something I loved. Serving them as appetizers and the bread with your meal is smart. It’s hard to eat just one.

We also fell for the onion rings. Thick cut, battered, and deep fried, they hit the table hot and crispy. The onions themselves were soft and juicy without the sharpness. They complimented the peppery coating and delivered the day’s most well-seasoned bite. The baked beans were also flavorful, served in a rich sauce that was perfectly spiced and balanced.

Regardless of my surprise, the sliced pork delivered on flavor. It was tender and smoky as the entrance hinted. The sauce was the one thing that left me wanting. It was more like a tomato puree with a strong flavor of what may have been Worcestershire. For me, it was under seasoned and didn’t deliver any familiar barbecue flavors.

Shout out to our server, Bobbie. She was stellar! She loved on us the entire time and made sure we got the best of everything. We felt important and that’s not easily done, even by restaurants that steadily deliver good service.

Word is their breakfast is award winning. If that can be gauged by the biscuits then I believe it. Nothing’s quite as good as a Southern breakfast and the menu flaunts so much more than just barbecue, everything from seafood to fried chicken to ribeye steaks. I guess after 60 plus years, you know what people like.