During my senior year of high school, there was one football practice where we practiced crackback blocks. The wide receiver was to crash down and take out the widest linebacker, sealing the edge so the running back could get wide. When my turn came at receiver, I determined to wipe my guy out. At the whistle I let loose with everything I had, only he saw me coming. He dropped then raised like a piston and blasted me right in the chest. That shot stood me straight up and I drew one deep breath. I don’t remember exhaling, just standing there breathless.

Speaking metaphorically, Coach Brown’s BBQ did the same thing. It occupies an old service station that offers no indoor seating. There are tables outside with a couple under the gas pump pavilion. The site is clearly mark, not only by vinyl signs and banners, but by the smoke rising from behind the building. A steady line of customers further tipped us off to this being something special. Once we reached the window, we went all out! Not only did we load up on our traditional favorites, but I splurged on something I’d never seen before and couldn’t resist…Soul Rolls!

They’re the southern version of an Asian staple. Chopped brisket, mac n cheese, and collard greens bound in an egg roll wrap and deep fried. It’s crispy, rich, creamy, salty, sweet, a tidy little package with big punch. I could eat those until I became disgusted with myself, but if I did that, I’d miss out on all the other showstoppers.

The pulled pork was tender and incredibly juicy, not a lot of bark but loaded with flavor. I ate most of mine without sauce, but not because the sauce lacked anything. In fact, it delivered an experience that was like culinary theater. It started out sweet, then went to tangy, then tart, before finishing with a hit of heat. I’ve never had a sauce put me on such a rollercoaster and it was thrilling!  The Barbecue Babe never eats red sauce, but she took the leftovers how and mopped the cup with Italian bread. The loaded baked beans were sweet and spicy, loaded with hamburger and pork and delivered big flavors. Pepper is a favorite and finds itself prominently displayed in a lot of dishes. That’s a good thing as Coach uses just enough to be bold without wrecking things.

The Barbecue Babe got the smoked half-chicken, which was beautiful. It was tender, pulled away easily, and held just enough smoke. It was some of the best I’ve ever had and we tore that poor bird apart. She also shared a bite or two of the mac n cheese, which was completely unique. It was baked with a soft macaroni noodle and strong Cheddar flavor. Again, a simple side loaded with flavor.

Coach Brown’s is a family business. Coach smokes the meat, mom makes the desserts, other relatives take orders, serve food, and help conceive the wildly creative menu. Best of all, there was lots of laughter in the kitchen. You can tell when a place cooks with love and this family does just that. Most heartwarming of all, Coach told me that when he first started a food truck, he was messing with his sauce recipe trying to get it right. One day his mom brought him a piece of paper upon which his father had written a secret barbecue sauce recipe, some time before he died. She had only recently found it and that sauce his father invented is now the house sauce of Coach Brown’s BBQ. Talk about gone but not forgotten. Even in death, Father Brown is helping bring life to the family business. Coach Brown’s is headed to the big time and everyone should come along for the ride.